Shanghai Guan Yin

In Shanghai, in Changning residential district is located a small temple of Three Rivers. A remnant from earlier times, it is now surrounded by high rise apartment buildings and by elevated highways. I discovered this temple several years ago and now, every time I come back to Shanghai, I go to visit this temple. It opens at eight o’clock in the morning and usually there is nobody there except me and the monk/care-keeper. I go to the temple to look at statues of gods, to take pictures, to give my thanks, and to pray.

Last year, when I visited the temple, I was attracted by a small statue that stood on a back of table near a dilapidated wall. The statue was covered with thick layer of dust and grime, but the lines of graceful female figure holding a child, with the robe flowing into a tail of a fish, were exquisite.

Guan Yin
Porcelain statue of Guan Yin (觀音) in the Three Rivers Temple (三泾庙), Shanghai, 2017.

I asked the monk/care-keeper, about the statue, and the monk replied that this was Guan Yin and insisted that I should take statue home. I speak very poor Chinese and the monk spoke no English so I was not sure if he really meant for me to take home a statue from the temple.

Yes, yes, the monk was saying, I did not give it to you. The monk was insisting, I did not give it to you, he did, – the monk was pointing to the statue of Lu Dongbin that was standing on the same table.

Lu Dongbin
Statue of Lu Dongbin (呂洞賓) in Three Rivers Temple, Shanghai, 2017.

Later, the monk found some newspaper, wrapped up the statue, and gave it to me. I learned later that this statue of Guan Yin is designed in such a way that if filled with water, the water will drip for hours from Guan Yin’s vase into the mouth of the fish.

I carried the statue in my backpack for a month while traveling with my students on a study abroad in China and Japan. Now it is standing on my table. I am reluctant to wipe off the grime patina of time on the statue. For me, this grime patina is a sentimental connection to the temple of Three Rivers and to the story about how Lu Dongbin, whom I consider my guide and teacher, “gave” me this statue.

There are many statues of Guan Yin in the Three Rivers Temple including a special Hall with Guan Yin and Mazu figures.

Hall of Feminine Deities
Hall of Feminine Deities in the Three Rivers Temple (三泾庙), Shanghai, 2017.

I am delighted that a small piece of this temple is now an altar on my table.

– Hirsh

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